Breakaway Adventures: The Art of Snowshoeing
Breakaway Adventures: The Art of Snowshoeing
From Old School, to Modern… Different Designs for Different Times
Many, many moons ago I was introduced to snowshoeing in the wilds of Northern Ontario. At that time there was only one kind of snowshoe - my grandfather’s! I think every kid that learned to snowshoe had the same pair as I did - my grandfather’s. I don’t think there ever was a different kind!
The old bent wooden frames, the lacquered rawhide webbing and the leather harnesses aptly described my grandfather’s and I’m pretty sure your grandfather’s and your friend’s grandfather’s brand of snowshoe - the grandfather snowshoe!
Mine were as long as I was tall and my feet kept sliding through the leather bindings, causing me to trip as I tried to step forward. Taking the first step was never easy! Many times taking a step was next to impossible, especially if the one shoe was sitting on top of the one that I was trying to pick up. Another face-plant was the normal outcome! They do make small snowshoes nowadays that actually fit small bodies and feet, but not the brand that I had - the grandfather!
I learned a lot on my own, trial and error, making snow devils rather than angels; you know the face first kind of impressions in the snow looking down into the lower sanctum rather the heavens above! To avoid stepping one shoe on the other, you’ll have to develop a wide gait that initially is awkward and tiring but it does solve the problem. The other problem with the foot sliding through the binding is solved by using a toe cup style binding. The toe cup prevents or limits the forward creep of your foot as you snowshoe.
Another lesson I learned was to never get my snowshoes wet! When your shoes get wet and the snow starts to accumulate on them, they will freeze up; it’s the same scenario as with wet snow clinging to a snow shovel. We all know how nasty that is to deal with! The shoes become extremely heavy. Walking into an unfrozen stream should be avoided at all costs. Not only will your shoes get heavy, your binding will also freeze up and be extremely difficult to get off.
Snowshoes have the binding positioned so that when you lift your foot up, the balance or pivot point is below the ball of your foot. The tail of the snowshoe should drop while the front of the snowshoe should rise. The two-fold advantage of this pivoting action is so that snow on top of the shoe’s webbing will slide off (only if the shoe didn’t get wet that is). The rising tip of the snowshoe will help you step above the snow or obstacle rather than plowing through the snow and/or tripping. If you are already a skier you know that the curved tip of your skis helps you ride over the snow, accomplishing the same as the pivoting snowshoe!
Different snow conditions determine the different approaches or techniques that you have to incorporate into your snowshoeing. Deep show requires a slower approach or pace. Walking through deep snow, snow that’s above your knees or even hips requires a shorter stride. This snow requires a trail breaking approach. Each step has to pack the snow down in front to a manageable level so that you can keep moving forward.
On hard packed snow you can almost run with your shoes on. Lengthen your stride but be careful not to trip over your own feet! Ideally your shoes under these conditions will be shorter for maximum speed with less trip ups. Hard pack conditions occur either on a groomed of well used trail or when there is an icy crust that has formed after a thaw and a freeze or a night of freezing rain. Be careful under these frozen conditions not to break through the icy crust; it could be very painful once the sharp crust strikes your shin.
Uphill approaches require crampons on the bottom of your shoes to help climb icy slopes while shoeing the flats usually requires longer tails on your snowshoe for better tracking. Your own body weight and purpose of your trip outdoors will also determine your equipment needs. The bigger the shoe and the heavier your load the better you float, while the smaller the shoe the better maneuverability.
Traditional wooden snowshoes in the beaver tail style of the Huron are universally considered the best - a proven design that has stood the test of time. There is a real satisfaction in using traditional Native American designed wooden snowshoes, especially on open fields and in old growth forests. They are quiet and float better on deep new snow.
By removing the tail of the Huron you get the Bear Paw, the forefather of the modern high tech shoe design very useful in extremely tight quarters or in conjunction with a snowmobile fitting neatly under the seat or strapped along the side. All modern high tech snowshoes are made with an aluminum frame and solid synthetic webbing with climbing crampons located directly below the foot. The best bindings are the ratchet type used by snowboarders as these are easy to operate without removing your gloves or mitts.
Some overlooked accessories when you are out shoeing is a set of telescopic ski poles useful for keeping your balance and testing for deep snow or thin ice. Any form of hiking boot will do as long it’s not too bulky, stiff and heavy. Don’t forget the sunglasses; the darker the lens the better, and a neck gator to cover the face and lips from sun and wind burn. Wow! I think you are all set! Enjoy the snow!
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Indrek Kongats is an artist, traveler, outdoorsman, and business owner residing in Ellicottville. He operates River Dog Art Gallery in Houghton, NY, and his Breakaway Classic Adventures specializes in adventure travel destinations. Learn more about him at breakawayclassicadventures.com.